Starting September 1, 2025, the EU banned TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) in gel polishes after it was classified as a CMR 1B substance—meaning it is suspected of being harmful to reproduction—under the EU’s classification, labeling, and packaging (CLP) regulation. This led to its prohibition in cosmetics, including nail products. At the same time, controversies around HEMA (2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) have grown, as it can sometimes cause allergic reactions or skin irritation if uncured gel comes into contact with the skin. As a result, many clients, salon owners, and nail techs are now seeking TPO-free and HEMA-free products for added safety and peace of mind.
What is HEMA?
HEMA is a chemical commonly found in gel polishes, builder gels, and other nail enhancements. Its main role is to improve adhesion, flexibility, and smoothness, helping manicures and enhancements last longer without lifting.
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Why clients might worry: HEMA is a known allergen for some individuals. If a gel isn’t fully cured and touches the skin, it can sometimes cause redness, itching, or peeling.
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How to explain to clients:
“HEMA is a common ingredient that helps the gel stick and stay flexible. Most people use products with HEMA safely, and we always make sure it’s fully cured under the lamp to remove any risk.” -
Or, more conversationally:
“We understand your concerns. HEMA helps the gel last longer and stay flexible, and it only causes issues if uncured gel touches your skin. If you prefer, we also offer HEMA-free options.”
What is TPO?
TPO, or Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, is a photoinitiator that helps gel polish cure under UV or LED light. It’s what gives gel its smooth, glossy finish and makes nails strong and durable.
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Why clients might worry: The EU banned TPO in gel polishes after animal studies suggested potential reproductive toxicity—but only at extremely high doses intake (digested through the mouth), far beyond any real-world exposure in a salon. In reality, no one swallows gel polish, and once it’s fully cured under the lamp, TPO no longer exists in a free form.
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How to explain to clients:
“TPO is what makes gel polish harden and get that perfect glossy finish. In most countries, including the U.S., it’s still safe and legal. Once the gel is fully cured, TPO is no longer free and cannot harm you.” -
Or more conversationally:
“TPO is only banned in Europe, and many brands are reformulating TPO-free versions. In salon use, exposure is minimal, and the real-world risk is extremely low. Our priority is always safety and healthy nails, so you can feel confident and comfortable.
Why Clients Get Concerned
Clients often hear alarming headlines about gel polish ingredients online. Words like “chemical” or “toxic” can sound scary. As nail professionals, it’s our job to provide context:
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Most people are exposed to extremely low levels, far below harmful doses.
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Properly cured gels are safe and do not release harmful chemicals.
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Many brands now offer HEMA-free or TPO-free options for clients who prefer extra peace of mind.
How to Reassure Your Clients
Here are some tips for discussing HEMA and TPO:
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Be transparent: Explain what each ingredient does and why it’s used.
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Highlight safety measures: Emphasize proper curing under UV/LED lamps and safe application practices.
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Offer alternatives: Show clients TPO-free or HEMA-free options if they prefer.
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Keep it simple: Avoid technical jargon—focus on safety and the benefits for their nails.
Example explanation to clients:
“Gel polish contains ingredients like HEMA and TPO to help it adhere and cure properly. When applied and cured correctly, these ingredients are safe. We also have TPO-free and HEMA-free options if you’d like an extra precaution.”
Quick reminder for all nail techs
Even though clients aren’t at risk, we handle these products every day, so proper precautions are important:
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Wear nitrile gloves
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Use ventilation or air filters
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Watch for redness, rashes, or itching and address it immediately
Bottom Line
As nail professionals, understanding HEMA and TPO helps you educate clients and build trust. While these ingredients can sound scary at first, they are safe when used correctly. Offering alternatives and clear explanations ensures your clients feel confident and cared for in your salon.
